TROUBLE SHOOTING PROBLEMS

PROBABLE CAUSE

PUMP

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FILTER

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LEAKS

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SPA

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CLEANER

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LIGHT

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SECRETS OF POOL OWNERSHIP

This is the basic routine maintenance that should be done by each pool owner designated by frequency. Adherence will save time and service costs if done correctly and on a timely basis. Remembering that incorrect water level, dirty filters and baskets are the greatest cause of repairs. This should be a motivating factor.

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CLIMATE CHANGES

As the climate changes, the amount of time needed to keep your pool clean will change. The hotter it is; the more we swim; the more chemicals that are needed. It is during this period, your pool must run longer because it is drier and dustier. The colder it is, the less we swim (that is unless you heat your pool). Your chemicals will become more stable in cold water and your system will not need to run as much as during the summer.

Depending on the size of the pool, the summer settings are 8 – 12 hours per day and the winter settings are 5 – 7 hours per day.

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WINTERIZATION

During the winter months, the outdoor temperatures will change daily, going from hot to very cold. We have experienced unusual temperature variations during the last several winters. Because of that, winterizing your equipment is especially important. If it is done properly, you should not experience any related problems. If not, you can be sure that your pool will sustain damage.

It is important for you as a pool owner to maintain your pool during the winter months. There are three major things which cause most problems to occur during freezing temperatures: (a) debris in the skimmers; (b) debris in the pool pump; and (c) a dirty filter. Freezing water can cause damage to pools and equipment primarily through expansion pressure exerted by ice. This repair is not covered under your pool warranty. Here are a few tips:

GENERAL PROCEDURES

1. Disconnect and drain all fill & slide lines. Remember to blow out the lines to remove all the excess water that can freeze.
2. Repair all air & water leaks.
3. Remove all pool cleaners that float on the surface and store in a clean dry place (be sure to remove trippers (on clip) from pool cleaner’s time clock and leave it in the OFF POSITION. NOTE: Polaris & Letro cleaners can be left in the pool except under severe conditions.
4. Store your test kit away from freezing conditions.
5. Remove and store all pool accessories (floats, poles, etc.) in a clean dry place.
6. Lubricate all “O” rings (using a non-petroleum base lube. Petroleum base lubes cause swelling of “O” rings).
7. Insure that the skimmers and the pump basket are free of debris.
8. Backwash your filter or clean internal components of the filter (it is best to have a professional clean the internal components of the filter).

WEEKLY WINTERIZING PROCEDURE

1. TEST – continue to test your water 2-3 times weekly & adjust chemicals as necessary.
2. CHLORINATE – adjust your chlorinator to highest setting and check weekly – no tablets in the winter.
3. SHOCK – add shock to the pool every 5 to 7 weeks during the winter months or as necessary. Maintain at least a .5 free chlorine level.
4. MAINTAIN PROPER WATER LEVEL at all times.
5. REMOVE ALL DEBRIS from pool to avoid metallic & organic staining on the plaster.
6. BRUSH DOWN POOL WALLS & FLOOR weekly or as necessary.

CIRCULATE POOL WATER for a minimum of 6 hours a day (during the coldest time of 24 hour period). NORMALLY 10:00 PM TO 6:00 AM.

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SPECIAL WINTERIZING PROCEDURES FOR FREEZING WEATHER

When the air temperature drops below 32F and ice forms on the tile and surface of the pool, freezing water conditions exist. During these conditions, additional steps are necessary.

1. Run pump and filter continuously. The freeze guard unit will automatically activate the pool pump and keep it running until the temperature rises above freezing. NOTE: IT IS POSSIBLE FOR YOUR FREEZE GUARD TO CUT OFF THE POOL EVEN WHEN IT IS STILL BELOW FREEZING. This occurs when the sun is shining directly on the freeze guard. If this happens, activate the pump manually and remove the trippers so the pump will not turn off.
   
   
2. Place plastic containers in the pool to keep the surface from freezing. Break up ice on the pool and spa surface continuously to prevent ice expansion damage. Be careful not to damage pool components while breaking ice. NOTE: Filter pressure gauge will sometimes freeze giving a false reading that the pool needs to be backwashed. Never backwash filter during freezing conditions.
   
   
3. Keep skimmers free of ice. The weirs (skimmer doors) also should be kept clear of ice. SUGGESTION: Lower door by hand and place a clean brick on top of the door to allow for free flow of water to pump or carefully remove skimmer doors.
   
   
4. Maintain your water at normal levels. Evaporation of water is normal during cold weather. If water gets so low in the pool that the pump is allowed to draw air, it will greatly increase the chances of your equipment freezing and being damaged by ice. SUGGESTION: If outdoor faucets are frozen, connect a garden hose to the water supply in the utility room and fill pool from that source.
   
   
5. Maintain valves in normal filtration position for suction and return water to pool and spa.
   
   
6. If you run your heater during low freezing conditions, this may cause damage to the heater. Always run your heater with discretion in the winter.
7. Open spigot on backwash line if necessary, or remove sight glass.
   
   
8. Turn eyeball fitting in the return jets up towards surface so that it ripples from flow line.
   
   

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SPECIAL WINTERIZING PROCEDURES DURING A POWER OUTAGE OR WINTERIZING A FROZEN POOL

NOTE: The main goal is to reduce the possibility of freeze damage by draining all the water out of your pool equipment. The water will equalize back to ground level where the underground pipes are more insulated.

1. Turn “OFF” the pool equipment circuit breaker.
   
   
2. Open the air bleed valve on top of the filter as well as the drain plug at the bottom of the filter tank.
   
   
3. Remove winterizing drain plug(s) on heater header(s).
   
   
4. Remove drain plugs on bottom of every auxiliary pump in your system to drain water from basket and impeller cavity.
   
   
5. Open all suction and return valves – unless your equipment is below pool water level (in that case, keep them closed).
   
   
6. Loosen lid on automatic chlorinator.
   
   
7. Place a plastic container (such as an empty gallon milk container) in each skimmer – this can be weighted down with pea gravel or 1/3 full of water. If ice forms in the skimmer, the container will allow for expansion, helping to prevent freeze damage.
   
   
8. Remove drain plug on pool cleaner pump.
   
   
9. BACKWASH VALVE: If you have a push/pull type, place the handle in the backwash position. If you have a multi-port type, depress the handle and rotate it so the pointer on handle is between any two of the marked settings.
   
   
10. Cover equipment (or build a “tent” around the system) to protect it from cold and add a heat source.

NOTE: Do not leave the “tent”around the system after power is restored.

HELPFUL HINTS

Electronic heaters do not have a pilot light (constant flame) to provide a source of heat. When cold air blows over them, they tend to freeze up quicker than millivolt heaters. If it is going to freeze, protect it by putting a blanket on the heater. REMEMBER TO REMOVE IT BEFORE TURNING IT ON AGAIN. If the temperature is below freezing or very cold for a long period of time, cover your equipment and put a light or heating pad under the cover. This will help keep the equipment from freezing.

WARNING: REMEMBER YOU CANNOT RUN THE HEATER WHEN THE EQUIPMENT IS COVERED.

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POOL SAFETY

OUTSIDE THE POOL

• Children require constant supervision. Never let them play in or around the pool without close and continuous adult supervision.
  
  
• Basic lifesaving equipment should be provided and available at all times, including a lightweight, strong, blunt-ended pole at least 12 feet long or a ring buoy with a long throwing rope attached to it.
  
  
• The National Swimming Pool Institute recommends that an outdoor swimming pool be protected by a fence, wall or building which is impenetrable by toddlers and at least 4 feet high. This barrier should not afford any external handholds and should have a self-closing latch above the reach of toddlers. Hardware for permanent locking should also be provided.
  
  
• A selected list of emergency telephone numbers should be on hand, which includes the nearest available physician, ambulance service, hospital, police, fire and/or rescue unit. A phone near the pool can also make the critical difference during an emergency (as with other appliances, keep it clear of pool, standing water or wet decks).
  
  
• Electrical equipment used for the pool should conform to local regulations or the latest National Electrical Code requirements. Never allow electrical appliances near the pool if they are not equipped with a ground fault circuit interrupter (G.F.C.I.).
  
  
• A handy complete first aid kit is a practical addition.
  
  
• Decks around the pool should be clean and clear of debris.
  
  
• Make sure all cups and dishes used at poolside are non-breakable.
  
  
• Make a periodic safety and maintenance check of all pool appliances and equipment – including slides and diving boards.
  
  
• The pool and surrounding areas should be vacated during an electrical storm.
  
  

INSIDE THE POOL

• Learn CPR or have someone who is trained in this life-saving process available whenever the pool is in use. Posting CPR steps poolside is also helpful.
  
  
• Never swim alone or allow anyone else to do so. Sudden cramps can strike even the most experienced swimmer.
  
  
• Pools ARE NOT THE PLACE FOR HORSEPLAY. Invest in a couple of good safe pool games like water basketball, volleyball, floating board games or dive sticks/rings.
  
  
• Learn to swim. Make sure all pool users are well qualified, particularly the youngsters. Even those toddlers can be drown-proofed through special classes.
  
  
• Establish sensible pool rules at the very beginning; posting rules and consistently reinforcing them will serve swimmers well. Swimming aides and life preservers should be checked frequently for leaks and proper inflation levels.
  
  
• Do not allow inebriated individuals near the pool. Be cognizant of other physical conditions or medications that would impair a swimmer’s safety. Heated spas can also exacerbate some conditions or prescription therapy.
  
  
• At all times, have responsible adult supervision of swimmers.
  
  

SLIPPING, SLIDING AND DIVING

• Pay close attention to the surface of the diving board. Making sure the non-slip surface is always in good condition.
  
  
• Allow jumps and dives only from the front of the board.
  
  
• Residential pool diving boards were not designed for Olympic competition; keep dives simple and safe.
  
  
• Diving boards and slides should not be installed on residential swimming pools that were not built to accommodate them. Confer with us regarding questionable facilities – slope and depth of water is critical for these applications.
  
  
• Children are particularly intrigued with slides and boards, Supervision of activities and frequent equipment safety checks are imperative.
  
  
• Make sure other people do not play around or under the board when someone is on it. A lifeline across the pool where the deep-end slope begins will help separate the two areas of the pool and keep inexperienced swimmers out of deep water.
  
  
• Jump boards and water slides require the same attention and care as do diving boards; anchoring should be sufficient to support weight and use.
  
  
• One person at a time on slides or boards.
  
  
• On slides, the sitting-down, feet-first position is recommended. If going headfirst, however, then go face down. Keep arms well extended, with head and hands up when entering the water.
  
  

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GLOSSARY OF TERMS

ACID DEMAND – Acid required to destroy excessive amounts of alkalinity.

ACIDIC WATER – The condition of water that contains a sufficient amount of acid to lower the pH 7.0. Water with a pH below 7.0.

ALGAE – Microscopic plants that contain chlorophyll and live floating or suspended in water. They also may be attached to structures or other submerged surfaces. Algae produces oxygen during sunlight hours and uses oxygen during the night hours. These organisms are continually introduced into the pool by winds, dust storms, rain showers, etc. Besides being unsightly, pool contaminated with algae is unsanitary.

ALGAECIDE – Any substance or chemical specifically formulated to kill algae.

ALKALINITY – The capacity of water to neutralize acids. Alkalinity is expressed in parts per million (ppm). Alkalinity is not the same as pH because water does not have to be strongly basic (high pH) to have a high alkalinity. Alkalinity is a measure of how much acid can be added to water without causing a great change in pH.

ALKALINE – A condition of water which contains a sufficient amount of alkali substance to raise the pH above 7.0.

BACKWASHING – The process of reversing the flow of water back through the filter media to remove entrapped solids.

BACTERIA – Bacteria are living organisms, microscopic in size, which usually consist of a single cell. Most bacteria use organic matter for their food and produce waste products as a result of their life processes. Invisible living germs that can be harmful to swimmers.

BTU (British Thermal Unit) – a measure of heat energy. As a general rule, a pool will raise approximately 1 degree per hour and a spa will raise approximately 1 – 2 degrees per 5 minutes. The items that will affect this time frame are the size and depth of the pool/spa; the size of the pool heater and the distance the pool/spa is from the pool equipment.

CALCIUM – Metal iron contained in water can form salts such as calcium carbonate. Calcium carbonate in sufficient amounts can cause cloudiness or scaling. It usually exists because of improper balance of pH.

CALCIUM HYPOCHLORITE (CAL HYPO) – Type of granular chlorine used to shock pools. There is an available chlorine level of 65%, calcium level of 18.2% and a pH level of 10.0 – 11.0.

CHECK VALVE – A special valve with a hinged or spring loaded disc that opens in the direction of normal or excessive flow. It is forced shut when water flow attempts to go in the reverse direction.

CHELATION – A chemical complexional (forming or joint together) of a metallic ion (such as iron or copper) with certain organic compounds, such as EDTA (ethylene diamine tetracetic acid). Chelation is used to prevent the precipitation of metals (calcium, copper etc.)

CHLORINE (available) – Residual chlorine that is available to destroy bacteria on contact.

CHLORAMINE – Available chlorine that combines with nitrogen compounds in the water to form chloramines (this has far less potential to destroy bacteria than free chlorine).

CHLORINE DEMAND – Chlorine demand is the difference between the amount of chlorine added to water and the amount of residual chlorine remaining after a given contact time. Chlorine demand may change with dosage, time, temperature, pH, and the nature and amount of the impurities in the water.

CHLORINE (free) –Chlorine known as hypochlorous acid that has not reacted with other materials to form combined chlorine.

CHLORINE RESIDUAL – That chlorine remaining in pool water after demand has been satisfied.

CORROSION – The gradual decomposition or destruction of a material by chemical action, often due to electrochemical reaction. Corrosion may be caused by (1) stray current, (2) galvanic corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, (3) concentrated oxidation, or (4) an acidic solution.

CYANURIC ACID – Refer to STABILIZER.

DIATOMACEOUS EARTH (DE) – A fine, siliceous (made of silica) earth composed mainly of abrasive skeletal remains of diatoms.

DILUTE SOLUTION – A solution that has been made weaker usually by the addition of water (H2O).

DPD – A method of measuring the chlorine residual in water. The residual may be determined by either titrating or comparing a developed color with color standards.

Electrolytic Conversion – Generating bromine or chlorine from a sodium bromide or sodium chloride salt by electrolysis.

ETCHING – A condition created by aggressive water selectively leaching or dissolved out of a plaster matrix.

FILTER – A device allowing “cleansed” water to pass through on it path back to the pool after trapping particulate matter from the water.

GFCI (GROUND FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTION SWITCH) – Predominately used for pool/spa lights to detect bleeding of electrical current. These types of switches are required within a specific distance of the pool.

GUNITE – A type of concrete used to form the shell of a pool.

HAIR & LINT BASKET – The basket located in the front section of the pool pump (wet end) where debris collects before entering into the filter.

HOSE BIB – Another term for an outside faucet used as a fill source for a pool.

HYDRATION – Moisture entrapped within the plaster produces a cloud like or streaked look. This condition is highlighted by the refraction of the sun light during various times of the day.

HYPOCHLOROUS ACID – The free state of chlorine that actually destroys the bacteria and other organic wastes.

IONIZATION – The splitting or dissociation (separation) of molecules into negatively or positively charged ions, such as copper and/or silver.

LITHIUM HYPOCHLORITE – Quick dissolving…leaves no residue. 35% available chlorine.

MAGNESIUM – A dissolved mineral in swimming pool water. Contributes to water hardness and turbidity.

Main Drain - A fixed device located at the bottom of the pool and/or spa. The purpose is to circulate water from the deep water of the pool on the suction side. This allows for better mixing of pool chemicals.

MOTOR – The rear end of an electrical pump. The motor rotates an impeller that moves water back and forth from the pool/spa and the pool equipment.

MOTTLING – This word is improperly used to describe unexplainable phenomenon. Undesirable gray cloud like discolorations on pool surfaces usually originate from a hydration problem or from fallout of metals. The metals originate from source water, metallic algaecides, excessive water velocity through heaters, or the stripping of metals from the system by high oxidizer levels, or aggressive water.

MURIATIC ACID – An acid used to reduce pH and alkalinity. Also used to remove stain and scale.

OTO – A reagent used with your test kit in determining the amount of chlorine in the water.

P-TRAP – The term for the location where the backwash line from the pool filter connects to the sewer system. Typically this location is in front of the house (generally in the flower bed).

pH – pH is an expression of the basic or acid condition of a liquid (water). The pH may range from 0 – 14, where 0 is most acid, 14 most basic, and 7 is neutral. The pH of the eye fluids is 7.4.

PHENOL RED – A reagent used with your test kit in determining the pH of pool water.

PLASTER – The interior finish that covers the gunite structure, waterproofs the shell, and provides the aesthetically pleasing appearance of the pool. The plaster if composed of natural materials that have certain inherent characteristics – a certain amount of shading or color variation.

POOLSWEEP – A device that aids in the cleaning of the pool on a regular basis. There are several types: suction, pressure, auxiliary pump on pressure side, etc.

PPM – Parts per million or pounds per million. The term used to express quantity of a substance in water.

PRECIPITATE – (1) An insoluble, finely divided substance that is a product of a chemical reaction within a liquid. (2) The separation from solution of an insoluble substance.

PRECIPITATION – The chemical transformation of a substance in solution into an insoluble form (precipitate).

PUMP – A piece of equipment that moves water back and forth from the pool to the pool equipment.

RETURN MANIFOLD – A group of pipes and valves that control the flow of water to the pool and/or spa.

SCALE – Mainly composed of calcium carbonate. Shows up as white or dark streaks in the plaster. Caused by minerals precipitating and adhering to the plaster. Discoloration is caused by trapping dirt in the calcium deposit.

SEQUESTERING AGENT - A chemical complexing (forming or joining together) of metallic ions (such as iron) with certain organic or inorganic compounds. Sequestering agent aids in the prevention of the precipitation of metals. Also see CHELATION.

SKIMMER – A fixed device located in the beam/side of the pool. The purpose is to circulate water and remove debris from the surface of the pool on the suction side.

SKIMMER WEIR – The door that is located in the mouth of the skimmer. When the pool system shuts off, the door floats up keeping the debris in the skimmer.

SODIUM DICHLORO (DI-CHLOR) – Quick dissolving granular. There is an available chlorine level of 62%, cyanuric level of 57.3% and a pH level of 6.0.

SPOT ETCHING – A condition caused by the abuse of low pH sanitizers. This process is created when the gaseous vapors build up during pump down time or from floaters banging against the side of pools as they circulate. Initially appears as small spots on horizontal surfaces in the shallowest areas of a pool.

STABILIZER – A chemical when used properly is a very efficient control of chlorine. Inhibits the ultra violet rays of the sun from destroying the chlorine. Cyanuric acid is normally used as a stabilizer in swimming pool water.

STAINS – Discolorations of a pool surface caused by metallics in the water. This condition is created by out of balance water, improper use of algaecides, impingement, and source water. Discolorations can be avoided by the proper water balance, the use of testable sequestering agents and a sequest test kit.

SUCTION MANIFOLD – A group of pipes and valves that control the flow of water from the pool and/or spa.

SUPER CHLORINATION OR SHOCK TREATMENT – Approximately 5 times normal chlorine dosage usually employed during summer swimming months and/or heavier than normal bathing loads on a weekly basis.

TRICHLORO (TRI-CHLOR) – A type of tablet used in an automatic chlorinator. There is an available chlorine level of 89% - 90%, cyanuric level of 54.2% and a pH level of 2.7 – 2.9. The solubility of trichlor triples when the water temperature rises from 77 to 90 Degrees Fahrenheit.

TURBIDITY – Small suspended particles in the water in high amounts will cause cloudiness.

WET END – The front end of a pump that water passes through. The hair and lint basket is located in this section of the pump.

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POOL STATISTICS

DATE: _________________

NAME: _____________________________________

ADDRESS: _________________________________________________________

CITY: _________________

POOL:

Capacity: _____________ gallons approx. Water surface area: ______ sq. ft.

Play/Diving: _____________ Turnover rate: _______ hrs. approx.

Plaster type: ____________________________

POOL CONTROL, FILTRATION & CLEANING SYSTEM:

SPA:

LIGHTING:

WATER FEATURE:

Type: ___________________________________________________

Pump type: ______________________ HP: ___________ Model: ________

All warranties and agreements are effective as of this date: ______/______/_______

Authorized Representative: _________________________________________________

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