BALANCED WATER

Even with a well-constructed swimming pool outfitted with the best equipment and the finest filtration and circulation system, much of the success in maintaining a safe, attractive and pleasant-to-swim-in pool depends on the timing and amount of chemical additions. Just because the water looks blue and clear does not mean that the water is balanced.

The interior of the pool cures 60% in the first 30 days and remainder (40%) cures in the next 10 to 12 months. The beauty and health of your pool’s interior surfaces is dependent on the proper maintenance of water chemistry. Therefore a large part of this section of the manual has been dedicated to water chemistry.

In the equipment section, some correlations have been drawn between the human body and your pool equipment to help illustrate the importance/function of the basic pool operation (i.e. Control System vs. “The Brain,” The Pool Pump vs. “The Heart,” The Pool Filter vs. “The Kidneys and Liver,” and The Plumbing Lines vs. “The Arteries”). The Pool/Spa Structure and The Water is “The Stomach” – the interior surface is the lining and the water is the fluid that passes through it.

The condition of the water has a dramatic impact on the appearance of the interior surfaces. There are two (2) components that affect the condition of the water:

• The filtration (Pool Pump and Filter)
  
  
• The food ingested (Chemicals)

It is important to start with balanced water. Take a sample of your water in a CLEAN plastic container to your retail pool center. The sample should be from the deep end of the pool, about 18 inches below the surface, away from the return fittings. Once your pool water is balanced, you can be assured that you are getting the most out of your chemical treatment program.

Proper maintenance of pool water, within normal pool parameters, reduces the need for specialty products to eliminate algae and discolorations.

A test kit has been provided to ensure the alignment of your pool water chemistry. Tests can be conducted for four components:

• Chlorine Residual
  
  
• pH Level
  
  
• Acid Demand
  
  
• Total Alkalinity
  
  

Regular and proper use of your test kit and appropriate chemical application will protect your pool surface, equipment and swimmers’ health. Test kits should not be exposed to prolonged sunlight, other pool chemicals or extreme temperature.

These are the primary chemicals that should be checked weekly. In reviewing the “Proper Ranges of Water Chemistry” chart below, there are some additional tests that should be done periodically. The initial cost of a test kit to test these other items as well as the yearly replacement of the reagents is cost prohibitive for most pool owners.

NOTE: PLEASE READ ALL LABELS CAREFULLY before adding anything to your pool water.

At this point, you are probably thinking that you need a degree in chemistry to take care of your pool. In actuality, you will use other people to do the legwork in providing you with the test results (our retail centers will give you the actual numbers). This will allow you to evaluate the condition of your water and directions on application of chemicals.

NOTE: Due to the gravity of the impact that water chemistry has on the appearance of your investment, please spend a little time in this area.

The discolorations/stains, deterioration, pitting and scaling of interior surfaces do not happen over night, but through long periods of neglect. These conditions, if not dealt with, will become visual over a period of time on the pool surface.

In an ideal situation, a good rule of thumb is to replace 1/3 of your pool water each year. The logic here is that these chemicals (Calcium, Cyanuric Acid, Total Dissolved Solids, Iron or Copper) levels that would be detrimental to your interior surface would never get high or cause algae problems. Yes, you do replace some of your water through evaporation and backwashing, but this is not enough to dilute these levels.

For your convenience, below is a liquid conversion table that can be used in conjunction with the chemical tables that follow:

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CHLORINE

The most commonly used disinfectant in swimming pools is chlorine – in its natural state it is a gas. This gas is hard to handle and very dangerous. Combined with other elements, chlorine gas produces a safe, effective means of combating bacteria, algae and other organic wastes. There are several types of chlorine compounds, both organic and inorganic.

Inorganic Chlorine – Not Stabilized

1. CHLORINE GAS – gas; unstable, resulting in a rapid loss of sanitizing power.

2. CALCIUM HYPOCHLORITE – granular; will not dissolve completely in water, can contribute to a scaling condition.

3. SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE – liquid chlorine; unstable, resulting in a rapid loss of sanitizing power.

Organic Chlorine – Stabilized

1. DI-CHLOR – granular; fast dissolving.

2. TRI-CHLOR – tablet; solid form in various sizes, large and small sticks and rings.

Organic chlorines have built-in protection against the sun’s ability to take chlorine out of your pool. This insures you of continually having chlorine in your pool water.

When chlorine is first added to your pool, it must satisfy an initial demand. This simply means that you must destroy all bacteria, algae and organic wastes before maintaining a sufficient level of chlorine protection. This level is called your chlorine residual or free chlorine. A good level to maintain would be between 1.0 – 3.0 ppm. Lower levels will not protect the swimmer and high levels will cause skin irritation as well as a waste of Costly chemicals.

Temperature, swimmer load, and debris carried into your pool by wind and rain, will all affect your chlorine level.

NOTE: The use of Chlorine Gas can void your plaster warranty. Chlorine gas is very corrosive with an extremely low pH (1.1). The life of your plaster can be cut from ½ to 2/3 as well as discolor the plaster surface. The problem lies with the proper balancing of the pool water after treatment, and the major swings in pH.

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SHOCK THERAPY

Whenever people talk about shocking a pool, you can be sure they are not talking about electricity. “Shocking a pool” involves adding an extra dose of chlorine, over and above what is needed on a regular daily basis, to balance and sanitize the water.

Most suppliers advise owners to super chlorinate their pool every 7-14 days during the swimming season. Until you have experience with water chemistry, this is a good guideline; the importance of super chlorination can only be fully appreciated when the consequences of NOT doing so are experienced.

Sanitation is the key reason for super chlorinating; water is cleansed of algae, bacteria, dirt, swimmer residue and any other organic matter that may have entered the pool.

Determine the percentage of available chlorine from the label of the product you are using (Cal Hypo is 65% and Di-Chlor is 90%). Use the chart below to determine the appropriate amount of chlorine for shocking.

Note: A typical shock to just raise the chlorine level from zero, not an excessively algae covered pool, would be approximately ½ this dosage (I.E. pool with 20,000 gallons and using Cal-Hypo-65% available chlorine = 7.7# per chart above/2 = 3.75# approximately.

With experience, a connection between the recommended chlorine application and a conversely low or marginal chlorine reading will indicate a deficiency of chlorine to address the algae, bacteria, dirt, swimmer wastes and any other organic matter present in the pool water.

Here are some guidelines to help determine when to super chlorinate or shock your pool:

1. AT POOL START UP. Even when covered during the winter, pools will accumulate leaves, twigs, dirt and other debris. Super chlorination helps burn up this organic matter and balances the water added.
2. FOLLOWING A COLD SPELL. When you have left the pool covered or un-circulated for an extended period of time, it is always a good idea to treat the water. Under these circumstances, pH tends to drift; water goes out of balance and algae may tend to multiply.
3. WHEN CHLORINE TESTS WEAK. There is no substitute for testing chlorine and pH on a DAILY basis. When chlorine residual drops to zero or below, pool water needs an extra shot of chlorine.
4. WHENEVER POOL WATER IS LESS THAN CRYSTAL CLEAR. This condition is generally the first visual sign that the water needs a boost of chlorine. If you cannot see the bottom clearly or water appears the least bit cloudy, the water chemistry is out-of-balance or algae are starting to grow. Shocking is the fastest way to restore water clarity.

NOTE: The cloudiness in this case could also be a result of a damage pool filter or poor circulation (pool filter may need to be backwash or broken down and the elements clean).

Make Sure you run your filter pump at least two to six hours after treatment. This will insure that the chemicals are diluted and prevent the possibility of chlorine sitting in a concentrated from on the plaster.

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pH

The term “pH” is used to express the alkalinity or the acidity of pool water. On a scale of 0-14, with 0 being acidic and 14 being alkaline, 7 is neutral. The ideal level for a plaster pool is 7.4 – 7.8. A low pH reading, indicating an acidic condition, will result in damage to the pool interior surface and equipment and will cause accelerated chlorine dissipation. A high pH reduces the operation level of chlorine and can cause cloudiness, scaling, algae and bacteria growth. Imbalance of pH will cause swimmers’ eye irritation. Use MURIATIC ACID to control high levels of pH. Use pH PLUS or Soda Ash to control low levels of pH.

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TOTAL ALKALINITY

Total alkalinity is the measure of pH regulating minerals that act as buffering agents in your water. In plaster pools, under normal conditions, a measurement of 80-120 ppm is ideal. Total alkalinity should be adjusted before pH. ALKALINITY PLUS or Sodium Bicarbonate will raise total alkalinity; MURIATIC ACID will lower your total alkalinity.

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WATER HARDNESS

Another aspect of balanced water has to do with hardness. Certain “metals” need to be present in pool water to satisfy the water’s aggressive need for metals. This is measured in terms of calcium and magnesium. If this demand is not met, your pool water will seek out its’ needs, attacking and corroding your equipment and pool walls. To correct for low hardness levels a CALCIUM HARDNESS INCREASER is used. Follow the label directions. The desired range is 200-250 ppm in plaster pools.

If high levels of hardness persist, other problems are encountered. Cloudy water and scaling of your pool walls and equipment can occur. To help keep high hardness levels in line, a STAIN, SCALE or METAL CONTROL is used.

The only means of decreasing the calcium hardness is to dilute with fresh water.

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BALANCED WATER NEEDS TO BE STABILIZED

Chlorine is susceptible to rapid decomposition from the sun’s ultra-violet rays. In order to improve chlorine’s active life and reduce this wasteful loss, the addition of CHLORINE CONDITIONER (cyanuric acid) is recommended. A 30-50 ppm is recommended to maintain the proper level. Follow the directions on the label precisely. This treatment is usually necessary only once when in conjunction with stabilized chlorine.

The only means of decreasing cyanuric acid is to dilute with fresh water.

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METALS

Iron, copper and magnesium can enter your pool through various sources - copper based algaecides, the erosion of metal components of your pool equipment or the pool interior fixture’s and make-up water. Sometimes the mere addition of one of the controlling pool chemicals previously mentioned above will cause these metals to come out of solution and stain your pool. Most poolside test kits will not test for metals. This is why it is so important to take a water sample in and let your retail pool center balance your pool water. The use of a sequestering agent should be used to prevent the precipitation of these metals on the pool surface.

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ALGAE CONTROL

Algae comes in several forms. Algae are single-cell plants containing chlorophyll and are one the hardiest and most widespread living organisms on this plant. It can be introduced by rain, wind or even a swimmer’s swimming suit. Algae requires warm water, sunlight and carbon dioxide to grow – and pool water has the potential of providing just such an environment.

There are three (3) main categories of algae found in pool water:

• Green Algae – usually floating algae, but sometimes clings to walls. Pool water becomes turbid with a green growth that renders the pool uninviting and dangerous to use by making it difficult to see the bottom of the pool. Before green coloration appears, sides of the pool have a slippery feel, water becomes hazy and exhibits a high chlorine demand.
• Mustard (Yellow) Alage – appears as a yellow powdery deposition on the pool, usually on the shady side. Once established, it is chlorine-resistant and can exist in the presence of 3-5 ppm Free Chlorine.
• Black (blue-Green) Algae – evident by the formation of dime-to-quarter-size black (or blue-green) spots, tenaciously adhering to the pool’s surfaces. Black algae forms a layered structure where the first layers, which may be killed by chlorine, protect under layers form further destruction. Black algae, like mustard algae, is also chlorine-resistant.

When the sanitizer levels are allowed to drop or deplete, algae spores (seeds) will germinate. Within 12 hours, a pool can be completely inundated with green algae.

As with any problem, the best cure is prevention. It is recommended to use a good algaecide, along with super chlorination, to control algae. Follow the directions on the label. The algaecide will work in conjunction with the chlorine to destroy the algae and help prevent reoccurrences.

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HANDLING & STORAGE OF POOL CHEMICALS

• All chlorine bearing compounds are oxidizing agents and can cause FIRE or EXPLOSIONS if they come in contact with organic compounds such as household cleaners and paint materials – STORE CHEMICALS APPROPRIATELY.
• Chlorine is irritating to the skin and eyes; therefore, contact should be avoided. Do not inhale fumes. Wash hands thoroughly after handling any chemicals.
• Do not smoke when around chemicals. Some products have explosive fumes.
• Chlorine compounds should be stored in a cool and dry place, out of sunlight, and certainly out of reach of children and pets.
• Chemicals used to control pH such as dry acids are considered dangerous and contact should be avoided.
• All labels related to pool chemicals should be read carefully and strictly adhered to. Do not exceed dosages recommended; more is not better and can be dangerous to swimmers.
• Keep chemical containers closed when not in use.
• Empty containers should be disposed of immediately. Never allow them to remain in the storage area.
• Do not mix ANY pool chemicals together unless package instructions direct this. Add chemicals to pool ONE AT A TIME.
• Measuring cups should be plastic, glass or enamel. Each chemical should have a designated cup. DO NOT USE CHEMICAL MEASURING CUPS FOR ANY OTHER MATERIAL.
• Only prescribed chlorine cartridges should be used. Possible explosions can occur if these cartridges are refilled with the wrong chemicals.
• Automatic chlorinators should not be installed in un-vented rooms. NEVER ADD GRANULAR CHLORINE TO AUTOMATIC CHLORINATORS – THIS IS A VERY EXPLOSIVE SITUATION.
• All spills should be washed thoroughly with water. Avoid pouring spillage into re-useable containers as this could result in fire.
• Be familiar with first aid instructions on all chemical containers. Have emergency medical and poison control center phone numbers handy at all times.

Always add chemicals to water NEVER THE REVERSE.

Do not store chemicals in your garage, as the fumes released can cause rust to build up on metallic items in your garage (I.E. car bumpers, garage door tracks, tools, shelves, Etc.).

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